Guide on Retinol - Universally Woman

A Comprehensive Guide on Retinol

Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, has long been hailed as a powerhouse ingredient in the realm of skincare. Known for its remarkable anti-aging properties, retinol and its derivatives have become staples in many cosmetic products. In this blog post, we’ll delve into the wonders of retinol, discussing its benefits, the optimal percentage in skincare products, proper usage, and highlighting who should exercise caution when incorporating it into their routine. In this little guide on retinol, I’m going to share my experience using some skincare products with this ingredient.

Disclaimer: This blog post is for informational purposes only and should not be considered medical advice. Consult with a dermatologist for personalized recommendations.

Understanding Retinol and Its Derivatives

What is Retinol? Retinol, a form of vitamin A, is celebrated for its ability to stimulate collagen production, promote cell turnover, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Retinol derivatives are compounds derived from retinol. Here are some popular retinol derivatives along with their pros and cons, as well as examples of products containing each:

Retinyl Palmitate:
- Pros: Gentler on the skin compared to other retinoids, suitable for sensitive skin types, less risk of irritation.
- Cons: Less potent than other retinoids, may take longer to see results.
- Example Products:
  - Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Retinol Oil
  - The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane
Retinaldehyde:
- Pros: More potent than retinyl palmitate but less irritating than retinoic acid (aka tretinoin), suitable for those with sensitive skin, converts directly into retinoic acid in the skin.
- Cons: Can still cause irritation, especially at higher concentrations.
- Example Products:
  - Avene Retrinal 0.1 Intensive Cream
  - Osmosis Skincare Renew Advanced Retinal Serum
Retinyl Retinoate:
- Pros: Considered less irritating than retinoic acid, provides anti-aging benefits with less risk of irritation.
- Cons: Limited research available compared to other retinoids.
- Example Products:
  - Medik8 r-Retinoate Youth Activating Cream
  - Neostrata Enlighten Illuminating Serum
Adapalene:
- Pros: Highly effective for acne treatment, reduces inflammation, prevents acne formation.
- Cons: May cause dryness, irritation, and sun sensitivity.
- Example Products:
  - Differin Gel
  - La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel
Tretinoin (Retinoic Acid):
- Pros: Potent anti-aging effects, stimulates collagen production, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, treats acne.
- Cons: Can cause significant irritation, redness, and peeling, requires a prescription in many countries.
- Example Products:
  - Retin-A (prescription)
  - Altreno (prescription)
Isotretinoin (Accutane):
- Pros: Highly effective for severe acne, reduces oil production, prevents acne recurrence.
- Cons: Serious side effects including birth defects, dryness, sun sensitivity, requires close medical supervision and prescription.
- Example Products:
  - Accutane (prescription)

Choosing the Right Percentage

It’s important to note that while retinol derivatives offer numerous benefits for the skin, they can also cause irritation, dryness, and increased sensitivity to sunlight, especially when first starting to use them. It’s advisable to start with lower concentrations and gradually increase usage to minimize potential side effects. Additionally, using sunscreen daily is crucial when incorporating retinoids into your skincare routine to protect the skin from UV damage. Consulting with a dermatologist can help determine the most suitable retinol derivative and concentration for individual skincare needs.

Optimal Concentration: While individual tolerance varies, dermatologists often recommend starting with products containing 0.25% to 0.5% retinol. Gradually increasing the concentration as your skin builds tolerance can minimize irritation. You also need to consider that a higher percentage does not mean that the product is more effective. The effectiveness depends highly on your skin and how it reacts to the active ingredient.

When you start using retinol in your routine, your skin may need some time to adapt. This means that you can notice your skin peeling, especially around the nose and mouth. Your skin can purge, accelerating cells turnover, so the pimples are going to appear.

If you want to learn what is skin purging, Michelle Wong from the Lab Muffin channel on YouTube has a good video on this topic – “Is My Skin Purging or Breaking Out?”

EU has restricted the highest possible percentage of retinol and its derivatives in skincare products. A maximum concentration of retinol is 0.3% for facial products and 0.05% for body products. Customers still can purchase products with higher percentages of retinol overseas. However, manufacturers in Europe and importers will have to stick to the regulations.

How to Use Retinol Correctly

Application Tips:

Start Slow: Begin with a lower concentration, using it once or twice a week initially.
Layering: Apply retinol before heavier creams and after lighter serums. It is also recommended to apply products with retinol on towel-dried skin (NOT right after a toner or essence) since it can reduce the risk of irritation.
Sunscreen: Essential! Retinol makes your skin more photosensitive, necessitating daily SPF use.

Who Should Avoid Retinol?

Cautionary Advice:

Pregnant or Breastfeeding: Consult with a healthcare professional before using retinol. Since there is no evidence of how topical retinol influences the fetus, doctors usually dissuade pregnant women from using products with retinol. Clinical studies show that higher concentrations of vitamin A in the blood can interfere with the fetus’s development, causing malformations.
Sensitive Skin: Those prone to irritation or rosacea may need to approach retinol cautiously.

Personal Experience Using Retinol

I started using retinol about 5 years ago. Unfortunally, I haven’t made any specific pictures of my face to compare the result. It also would be probably impossible to make, since I have started using retinol when I was in my mid-twenties and I haven’t had any prominent wrinkles. However, what I noticed almost straight away is that retinol helped with my mixed skin type. I wasn’t that oily in the T-zone anymore. I also have less breakouts, though I can sometimes have minor irritations from retinol if I use too much or if I start using my serum after a break.

It is also important to specify that 90% of retinol serums or cremes that I used are budget friendly: the Ordinary (two different serums with different concentration), The Inkey List, InstaNatural, and L’Oreal Paris. Only one product was from the middle-priced range – La Roche Posay. I also plan to test further products that are on the market and I’ve already purchased some of them. So I hope to update this post after some time.

As for now, here is my impression of the above-mentioned retinol serums. I should mention that all of the products I’ve used, have had an effect on my skin, so I cannot label any of them as useless or as bad.

The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion is the only product that sometimes irritates my skin. Probably because it’s the most potent of all the serums I’ve used. The other the Ordinary retinol serum that I used was either Retinol in Squalane 0.5% or 1%. Since it was a while ago, I can’t remember. I didn’t like that this serum is oil-based and since I like layering my skincare and I have a mixed skin type, applying oils before or even after moisturizer wasn’t what I preferred.
La Roche Posay Redermic R Retinol was the gentlest to my skin I think.
Instanatural Retinol Serum was also pretty gentle and you can benefit from other active ingredients like vitamin C as well.
The Inkey List Retin o l Serum was the one that annoyed me by its packaging. The serum is pretty liquid and a packaging with a dropper or a pump would be better.
L’Oreal Paris Night Serum, 0.3% Pure Retinol worked for me as well as the other ones.

I definitely see a result from using retinol consistently in my skincare routine. Right now I’m in my 30’s and I notice subtle changes in my face obviously. Nevertheless, I’m overall happy with my appearance and time will show if using retinoids is going to pay off in 10-20 years. Honestly, I have little to no doubts.

Building Your Knowledge Base – Recommended Reading

In conclusion, incorporating retinol into your skincare routine can yield remarkable results when done with knowledge and care. Always consider your skin’s unique needs, and when in doubt, consult with a skincare professional.